Steps for installing a Scottoiler
Since the Honda Hornet doesn't have a centre stand, I found it difficult to oil the chain unless you have a paddock stand or some other means of lifting the back wheel. So after a few weeks I decided to install a Scottoiler.
The Scottoiler is an "Automatic Chain Lubrication System". Basically, there is a reservoir containing a light oil and an injector that drops the oil directly onto the bike's chain. To ensure the oil only flows when the bike is running, there is a valve that is opened by suction from the bike's engine. It's a simple enough concept.
The Universal Scottoiler kit is designed to fit most motorbikes, and the number of pieces it contains can be a bit overwhelming. I found the instructions to be so general that they were quite unhelpful. So after getting advice on the Hornet's Nest message board, I set about the task, and decided to document it for those following in my footsteps.
It took me about an hour to fit the Scottoiler, and the only tools that you need are a sharp knife to cut the pipework, a crosshead screwdriver and small spanner (wrench) to install the vacuum take-off spigot. The spanner in the Hornet's toolkit fits just fine!
So here it is, the definitive guide to fitting a Universal Scottoiler to a Honda Hornet! Click on any of the pictures to get a larger view of what is happening at each stage.
Step One: Preparation
I chose the location of the Scottoiler reservoir (the "RMV" in their parlance) carefully. These units are not cheap, so I didn't want it on show where people can easily help themselves; on the other hand, the RMV is the place where the oil flow rate is adjusted, and of course the reservoir has to be re-filled after a few hundred miles; so it has to be reasonably accessible.
 |
I settled on the left hand side of the bike, behind the left side panel, alongside the fuse box. The unit can be adjusted easily when the seat is removed, and is safely under lock and key when the bike is left unattended.
To install the Scottoiler here, you have to remove the left side panel, held on with a couple of Alan bolts.
The RMV can be secured in a variety of ways, but I used the "RMV cradle" set against the bike frame, and cable ties around the RMV and frame to hold it secure (but don't tie it on just yet!) |
| Locating the RMV |
|
Step Two: Routing the breather
|
The RMV needs a breather to let air in to replace the oil coming out. There is a long breather pipe supplied in the kit.
After slotting one end into the top of the RMV I routed it up alongside the coolant expansion tank and underneath the electrics box. It is well out of the way there and will stay clean and dry.
(Click on the image to see the detail) |

|
| |
Routing the breather tube |
Step Three: Installing the vacuum pipe
 |
The next step is to install the vacuum take-off from the engine to the RMV. It requires that you locate and remove the blanking screw, and add in the brass spigot that is supplied in the kit.
Here's a picture of the screw that you remove. (Click on the image to see a wider context) |
|
Vacuum take-off screw |
|
 |
...and here's a picture of the brass spigot in place. I reused the washer that was behind the screw. The spigot obviously needs to be firm, but don't go mad tightening it. |
|
Vacuum take-off spigot |
|
| The next step is to push the elbow connector onto the spigot and route the thin black vacuum pipe back to the RMV.
There is a convenient wiring loom that runs alongside the carburettor, and passes another that heads back to the RMV. I gently wrapped the pipe around the wires being careful not to kink or trap the pipe, and leaving a healthy amount of slack at both ends to play with.
You'll need to cut the pipe as you don't need the full length supplied, then push the end into the black sleeve on the top of the RMV. |
 |
| |
Routing the vacuum pipework |
Step Four: Installing the injector
 |
This was the part that really had me confused in the instructions, as there are many suggested ways of attaching the injector that actually drops the oil onto the chain.
I put a slight bend into the injector pipe (it is a plastic sheath containing the clear tubing and a bit of bendy metal), then pushed it through the two clear holders as shown in the picture. Someone suggested oiling the injector tube first to make it more adjustable, but I don't think that was a good idea -- I just got oily hands. |
|
Injector holders in place |
|
| The injector fixes onto the underside of the swingarm. First clean the underside of the swingarm with petrol to remove any oily deposits on there that would prevent the glue from sticking.
Once clean, coat the top of the injector holders with superglue and offer it up underneath the swingarm so that the tip of the injector (i.e. the dropper) is right above the chain at a 6 o'clock position with respect to the rear sprocket. The height of the tip above the chain is not critical at this stage as you can make fine adjustments later, but it is best to get the horizontal position correct because adjusting that later is more difficult. |
 |
| |
Positioning the injector |
| The injector holders are held in place by adding cable ties around the entire swingarm. I placed one cable tie between the holders to prevent horizontal movement, then two more on top of the holders that I intend(ed) to remove once the glue was set.
The glue didn't appear to be doing a great job fixing the holders in place, so I have actually left all the cable ties on for now. |
 |
| |
Attaching the injector to the swingarm |
Step Five: Routing the oil delivery pipework
 |
Now you have to route the clear oil delivery tubing from the underside of the swingarm to the top of the swingarm, and from there back to the bottom of the RMV.
I used another cable tie around the swingarm tucked up close to the gear level to keep the pipe taught along the bottom of the swingarm, then brought the pipe up very close to the chain (probably only 1mm clearance) and clipped it in place with a bulldog clip (see photo). The clip size I chose is very tight so I don't expect it to come off, and it doesn't pinch the tube. I left the bottom handle of the bulldog clip in place and simply folded it down, but removed the top handle as it is on show. It's a neat way of keeping the tubing secure.
From there I looped the pipe around some convenient wiring looms and left a very generous loop up around the coolant expansion tank. The pipework is primed later and gravity fed, so you can be generous with the routing. |
|
Bulldog clip pipe holder |
|
| Again, you won't need all the clear tubing, so cut it to length and attach it to the bottom of the RMV. The tube was a bit stiff, so I softened it with some hot water :-)
|
 |
| |
Softening the tube to fit on the RMV
|
 |
Finally, you can fix the RMV into place with yet more cable ties. Ensure that you leave enough room to turn the flow-rate dial on the top of the RMV, and that you locate the fill hole facing upwards so you can easily top up the reservoir.
If necessary you can go back and make fine adjustments to the position of the injector near the chain. When I checked it was already in the perfect position -- how clever is that! |
|
Fix the RMV to the frame |
|
Stand back and admire your work of art !

Step Six: Prime the system and set the drop rate
| All that remains is to fill the reservoir with oil, and set the flow rate dial to 'PRIME'. Disconnect the breather tube at the white plastic joint near the RMV, and connect the Scottoil bottle to blow oil through the system.
Apply firm, steady pressure by squeezing the bottle until you see the oil completely fill the oil delivery tubing. |
 |
| |
Priming the oil delivery tubing |
| Once the system is primed, set the flow rate back down to midway and start the engine. Watch the rate at which the oil drops from the injector, and adjust the flow rate until you get a drop every 30 seconds.
Now you are off! Go out for a spin and check the flow rate again when you return. My injector tip is just touching the metal plate of the sprockets in the picture (it leaves a clear line in the dirt) and is only about 1mm above the chain. So far it seems to be doing a great job! |
 |
| |
Set the drop rate |
You'll be left with a lot of unused bits from the Scottoiler kit too. So go get creative and see what you can make!
Send along comments and suggestions for fixings on the Hornet's Nest message board -- the best place for Hornet advice!
Text and photographs (c) peir.com 2002, All rights reserved. May not be used without permission.